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All Relation Beer, offbeat project by Miss. brewer, opens in Central City

News of another brewery setting up shop in New Orleans usually spreads fast. All Relation Beer, however, has been very quietly taking shape for months in Central City.

That's all the more surprising given the craft beer bona fides its two partners bring to the venture.

All Relation opened Saturday. The new brewery was developed by Southern Prohibition Brewing founder Quinby Chunn and Bobby Bendily, who was most recently brewer at Other Half Brewing in New York.

You can cruise right past its nondescript warehouse by the old Brown's Dairy facility without noticing. Step inside, though, and you find an intricately designed taproom pouring small-batch, offbeat beers made on-site.

Chunn started Southern Prohibition in Hattiesburg, Mississippi, in 2013 and has built it into a well-established regional player. Its flagship Suzie B blonde ale and its seasonal brews turn up at many New Orleans bars and stores.

All Relation is a different brand and with a different approach. The emphasis is on variety and pushing boundaries, with an ever-changing beer selection cycling through batch by batch.

''We can do cutting edge beers here, experimental beers, we can take risks,'' said Bendily. ''If you come in on a Saturday and come back Thursday there should be different beers.'' Beers on the opening list include a progression of in-

See COOKING, page 2D

Crafted wooden handles for the day's beers at All Relation Beer, a taproom in Central City.

STAFF PHOTO BY IAN McNULTY

WHAT'S COOKING

IAN McNULTY

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creasingly robust IPAs (up to one heavy hitter called ''90s Sheets'' at 12% alcohol). Others range through an easy-drinking Mexican lager (''Cheve'') and a piña colada berliner (''Flossed on Paradise'') with flavors of coconut, pineapple and lime.

Bendily grew up in Buras, in Plaquemines Parish, and later went to school in New Orleans. He was one of Chunn's brewers in the early days of Southern Prohibition.

At Other Half Brewing, a wildly popular, trend-setting brewery in Brooklyn, he made beers that drew lines of loyal drinkers whenever new releases hit the taproom.

All Relation was a chance for him and his wife to get back closer to home.

''New York is awesome, but it's not home; we were just really eager to get back here,'' Bendily said.

All Relation plans to distribute kegs through Pelican Craft Brands, a new Baton Rougebased distributor. The taproom, meanwhile, doubles as a sales point for canned beers with each new release.

As craft brewing has grown in New Orleans, breweries have opened in old industrial spaces across town, which usually have the right zoning, shipping docks and utilities for the task.

Most of their taprooms keep an industrial look too, with views of the brewing tanks and inner workings on plainspoken display.

All Relation, though, has the curated look of a cocktail lounge. It unfolds across a many- textured collage of styles, from old school pub to multimedia art installation.

Deep booths are trimmed with wood panels and stained glass. Over the tile-lined back bar, the names of the day's beers are displayed on boxy old TVs and monitors, some in cartoon font, some as video game titles. Zebra motifs are everywhere.

The taproom opens to a large beer garden under a pergola. A rotation of pop-ups provide different food nightly.

''This is a culmination of a lot of things Bobby and I wanted to see in a brewery,'' said Chunn. ''People know one kind of approach, but that doesn't mean it has to be the only one.''

As for the name, Bendily said All Relation is a reference to connectedness, a value he hopes the brewery embodies and encourages.

''It means everything's related,'' he said. ''It's about being open to new ideas and new collaborations.'' Email Ian McNulty at imcnulty@theadvocate.com.

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